Plus, a new dining wave in EAV and hot sauce from a former restaurateur.
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August 06, 2026 View in browser
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
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Henri Hollis  
By Henri Hollis

Editor’s note: Today’s newsletter has been sent again to correct the introduction. Thank you for subscribing.

Hi, food friends,

I’ve been going to Manuel’s Tavern since before I can remember. My parents love to tell a story about how they would bring me along to Manuel’s as a baby, where they would meet up with friends and let me nurse on an empty beer bottle, much to everyone’s amusement. The late 1980s were a different time.

At the end of 2015, Manuel’s shut down for three weeks of major renovations. I had begun working with restaurants at that point but wasn’t yet affiliated with The Atlanta Journal-Constitution. I remember my dad marveling at Bo Emerson’s AJC article about the highly detailed preservation efforts that went into mapping everything inside Manuel’s so it could be perfectly re-created after the construction project. The decor and ephemera covering every inch of every wall was painstakingly measured and recorded, a process that was detailed in the AJC’s pages and discussed at length in the Hollis household.

I joined the AJC as a reporter in February 2020, in what was supposed to be a temporary arrangement. The COVID-19 pandemic shutdowns began two weeks later, and I’ve been here ever since. At the end of that year, Manuel’s nearly closed for good after struggling through the year and continuing to pay employees. I remember the dread I felt helping cover that news, and the joy of reading former food and dining editor Ligaya Figueras’ article about the tavern raising more than $75,000 in a single day.

At the end of 2024, I went to a bittersweet retirement party for a cadre of AJC colleagues at Manuel’s, which has hosted many similar events over the years. Sitting in that bar surrounded by journalists felt like a significant moment – maybe one of the first times I really felt I was part of the AJC’s long history.

Today, it’s a delight to read Angela Hansberger’s loving decade-by-decade tribute to Manuel’s Tavern. My lifetime barely covers half the bar’s history, but it’s been inspirational to see how Manuel’s has been lovingly preserved, supported and even rescued by its patrons in just the past decade or so. It takes more than good business sense and luck for a restaurant to make it 70 years – only a strong community can make that happen.

You can reach out to me directly at henri.hollis@ajc.com with tips, thoughts or questions for the AJC’s food and dining team.

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