| Did a friend forward this newsletter to you? Sign up here to receive it in your inbox every Thursday. | | | | By Henri Hollis | | Food & Dining Reporter | | | | | | | | | Editor’s note: Today’s newsletter has been sent again to correct the introduction. Thank you for subscribing. Hi, food friends, I’ve been going to Manuel’s Tavern since before I can remember. My parents love to tell a story about how they would bring me along to Manuel’s as a baby, where they would meet up with friends and let me nurse on an empty beer bottle, much to everyone’s amusement. The late 1980s were a different time. At the end of 2015, Manuel’s shut down for three weeks of major renovations. I had begun working with restaurants at that point but wasn’t yet affiliated with The Atlanta Journal-Constitution. I remember my dad marveling at Bo Emerson’s AJC article about the highly detailed preservation efforts that went into mapping everything inside Manuel’s so it could be perfectly re-created after the construction project. The decor and ephemera covering every inch of every wall was painstakingly measured and recorded, a process that was detailed in the AJC’s pages and discussed at length in the Hollis household. I joined the AJC as a reporter in February 2020, in what was supposed to be a temporary arrangement. The COVID-19 pandemic shutdowns began two weeks later, and I’ve been here ever since. At the end of that year, Manuel’s nearly closed for good after struggling through the year and continuing to pay employees. I remember the dread I felt helping cover that news, and the joy of reading former food and dining editor Ligaya Figueras’ article about the tavern raising more than $75,000 in a single day. At the end of 2024, I went to a bittersweet retirement party for a cadre of AJC colleagues at Manuel’s, which has hosted many similar events over the years. Sitting in that bar surrounded by journalists felt like a significant moment – maybe one of the first times I really felt I was part of the AJC’s long history. Today, it’s a delight to read Angela Hansberger’s loving decade-by-decade tribute to Manuel’s Tavern. My lifetime barely covers half the bar’s history, but it’s been inspirational to see how Manuel’s has been lovingly preserved, supported and even rescued by its patrons in just the past decade or so. It takes more than good business sense and luck for a restaurant to make it 70 years – only a strong community can make that happen. You can reach out to me directly at henri.hollis@ajc.com with tips, thoughts or questions for the AJC’s food and dining team. | Historic Atlanta watering hole Manuel’s Tavern turns 70 | | | Journalist Angela Hansberger holds the McCloskey cheeseburger in front of the sign honoring the longtime Manuel's Tavern bartender Bill McCloskey. (Angela Hansberger for the AJC) | | A priest, a rabbi and a minister walk into a bar. This isn’t the setup to a joke — it’s a regular day at Manuel’s Tavern. The Poncey-Highland institution has offered a reserved “clergy only” parking spot for as long as locals can remember. It’s a small nod to the diverse folk who have passed through its doors over the last 70 years: lawmakers, journalists, political junkies, sports fans, barflies and yes, members of the clergy. This month, the tavern turns 70. Its history reads less like a bar’s resume than a running transcript of Atlanta itself. ⌛ 1950s: The bar that already had a past When Manuel Maloof opened his tavern in 1956, almost nothing about it was new. The building, a 1920s structure fronted in Stone Mountain granite, had once housed Harry’s Delicatessen (coincidentally, an establishment Maloof had served as a beer deliveryman). The deli’s original front door opening became a window to the parking lot from the Eagle’s Nest room. The bar itself was salvaged from an old billiard hall owned by Maloof’s father, Gibran, on Pryor Street. The wood paneling in the main bar was reclaimed from an old church about to be demolished; it was a nod to the cozy English pubs Maloof came to love while serving in World War II. ⌛ 1960s: Boundary lines and sacred walls The location in Fulton County proved useful. Just two blocks from the (then dry) DeKalb County line, Manuel’s offered the closest legal pour for Emory students, fueling its popularity among young adults and professionals alike. Maloof hung John F. Kennedy’s portrait above the bar following his 1960 victory, then shuttered the bar and draped the painting in black when Kennedy was assassinated in 1963. In 1968, Curtis McBride stepped behind the bar, kicking off a 42-year career serving Atlanta history by the pint. His photo would one day join the growing collection of pennants, steins and framed relics. 🍻 Read more: A decade-by-decade history of Manuel’s Tavern tells the story of Atlanta, one round at a time. | | A MESSAGE FROM OUR SPONSOR ED VOYLES HYUNDAI | | | Building trust for over 70 years: The Ed Voyles Hyundai legacy | | | | | Founded in 1952 by Air Force veteran Ed Voyles, Ed Voyles Automotive Group grew from a small used-car lot in East Point, Georgia, into one of the state’s most trusted automotive organizations. Built on integrity, hard work, and community service the Voyles name became synonymous with trust across generations of Georgia families. Today, Ed Voyles Hyundai operates from a state-of-the-art Marietta facility, continuing Mr. Voyles’ legacy of employee care and customer-first values—earning lifelong loyalty through exceptional service long after the first sale. Visit Ed Voyles Hyundai today! | | | | The Week's Essential Food and Dining Stories | | Order Roaring Social’s new martini dripping with real diamonds — for $10K | | | | | | 6 Atlanta food pop-ups this week, and the return of Brave Wojtek | | | | | So. Fox, Summerland, Y Bar lead Atlanta’s July restaurant openings | | | | | | Vertical farming startup shuts down metro Atlanta operations | | | | He traded Atlanta restaurants for a beach shack. He’s never been happier. | | | Brian Hogan, owner of the Inferno Hot Sauce Emporium, co-owned three Atlanta-area restaurants before moving to Tybee Island in 2018. (Miguel Martinez/AJC) | | The Inferno Hot Sauce Emporium on Tybee Island is the type of shop you wander in to only to get lost in — even though the store measures just seven steps deep and five across. Hundreds of bottles of hot sauce and meat rubs line the exterior walls. “Colon Cleanser,” reads one label; “Dark Side of the Pepper,” another. There’s one shaped like a hand grenade; another bears a white-sheet-ghost novelty trinket over the lid, denoting a ghost pepper sauce. A tasting table dares customers to try it before they buy it. Jimmy Cliff plays on a vinyl turntable in one corner. In another sits the proprietor, a middle-aged man with an easy, sly smile that makes you think he knows something you don’t. Brian Hogan’s work uniform is board shorts, a ripped T-shirt with the sleeves cut off and a bright yellow trucker hat that reads CRISPY SHRIMP across the front. Not so long ago, Hogan would have been found in the open kitchen of Shorty’s Pizza in Toco Hills or Tucker, or Pea Ridge Kitchen and Bar in Decatur, an apron across his front and a bandanna on his head. Restaurants were his life. He became a general manager the day after he graduated from Georgia State with an accounting degree and started his own place half a year later. Shorty’s became a neighborhood favorite under his leadership — he sold in 2013 at a profit — and in partnering with chef Patrick Dunn of Leon’s Full Service to open Pea Ridge in 2015, he’d “made it” in food service parlance. But at a cost; the long work hours meant he’d missed much of the first five years of his son’s life. With first grade looming, and with it earlier bedtimes that conflicted with late restaurant nights, Hogan gave up the grind and moved to the beach. “I love the restaurant business,” he said, “but I never figured out how to do it without working all the time. I wanted a simpler life.” 🌶️ Read more: Hogan put quality of life first and moved his family to Tybee Island. His second-act business, Inferno Hot Sauce Emporium, is now an island hot spot. | Upcoming Events | | | | | | | Atlanta’s annual Black Restaurant Week has returned as a two-week celebration of the city’s Black-owned restaurants. The initiative began as a way to honor and build awareness for African, African American and Caribbean cuisine with partnerships, culinary events and marketing campaigns intended to highlight small, local food and beverage businesses. | | | | | | | | | | | Every Tuesday through October, kids can eat for free at Atlanta-founded Mellow Mushrooms. Guests can enjoy up to two free kids meals per adult purchase of $15 or more. Kids meals are available for ages 10 and under, dine-in only. Kids meals include French bread pizza, four boneless wings and mac and cheese, all with a drink and choice of side. | | | | | | | The Chai Box grand opening | | | | | The Chai Box Cafe, a chai-focused cafe in the upper Westside, will have its grand opening party this weekend after a soft opening period. During the celebration, guests can expect iced chai and Parle-G biscuits, giveaways throughout the day, special pastries and live music. | | | | | | More From Food and Dining | | Tybee Island celebrates restaurant week and more from the coastal dining scene | | | | | | Why the U.S. government is launching a cooking show | | | | | Kamayan moves to new space and more from metro Atlanta’s restaurant scene | | | | | | Visit Georgia’s best college-town restaurants before summer farm season ends | | | | The quick pork dinner that uses up underripe peaches | | | Fresh tarragon complements the spice blend in this roasted pork tenderloin and peaches recipe. (Aaliyah Man for the AJC/Food styling by Kate Williams) | | It’s prime peach season, and when you’re tired of eating them over the sink or in cobblers and pies, add them to your dinner. Pair the stone fruit with relatively quick-cooking pork tenderloins for a sweet-and-savory meal that is simple to prepare but pretty enough for company. 💡 Jump-start pork tenderloin in the skillet Roasting isn’t always an obvious choice for a weeknight recipe, but it’s possible with the right technique. Instead of cooking the pork tenderloins in the oven from start to finish, give them a head start on the stovetop. Browning the meat first not only builds flavor on its exterior but also shortens the overall cooking time. 💡 Pumpkin spice brings complex warm flavors to savory pork While you may think of pumpkin spice as a dessert-centric spice blend, it works well in savory applications, too. After all, it’s simply a mix of warm spices like cinnamon, allspice and clove. In this recipe, it does double duty: rubbed on the pork tenderloins and as a seasoning for the peaches. 💡 Roast underripe peaches for fork-tender texture The challenge with roasting stone fruit like peaches is that it can fall apart in the oven. Starting with fully ripened peaches is a recipe for peach mush. Instead, use peaches that are still firm, yet aromatic. Put one up to your nose: If you can smell peach, it’s ready to use. 🍑 Get the full recipe for a 30-minute pork tenderloin. | Follow us on Instagram | | | |