| Did a friend forward this newsletter to you? Sign up here to receive it in your inbox every Thursday. | | | | By Henri Hollis | | Food & Dining Reporter | | | | | | | | | Hi, food friends, If you ever despair about the future, read today’s piece from lifestyle reporter Olivia Wakim about her recent experience judging a kids’ cooking competition. As she notes in the article, we’re bombarded with negativity about the current state of childhood. The antidote to all that pessimism is found in the real world, interacting with the actual children we spend so much time fretting about. Olivia’s story details how 17 kids, some as young as 7, spent a week learning to cook at a Decatur summer camp program. Their creativity and curiosity sparkle through her writing. It’s good to be reminded that the kids of today are still just kids. I felt it on our family beach trip, when my nephews peppered me with questions while I cooked dinner, or when they begged me to make Mexican hot chocolate again, which I served them once and they’ve never forgotten. The challenges of childhood might be different for this generation, but the experiences of cooking, eating and breaking bread together remain as universal as ever. You can reach out to me directly at henri.hollis@ajc.com with tips, thoughts or questions for the AJC’s food and dining team. | Historic Atlanta watering hole Manuel’s Tavern turns 70 | | | Journalist Angela Hansberger holds the McCloskey cheeseburger in front of the sign honoring the longtime Manuel's Tavern bartender Bill McCloskey. (Angela Hansberger for The Atlanta Journal-Constitution) | | A priest, a rabbi and a minister walk into a bar. This isn’t the setup to a joke — it’s a regular day at Manuel’s Tavern. The Poncey-Highland institution has offered a reserved “clergy only” parking spot for as long as locals can remember. It’s a small nod to the diverse folk who have passed through its doors over the last 70 years: lawmakers, journalists, political junkies, sports fans, barflies and yes, members of the clergy. This month, the tavern turns 70. Its history reads less like a bar’s resume than a running transcript of Atlanta itself. ⌛1950s: The bar that already had a past When Manuel Maloof opened his tavern in 1956, almost nothing about it was new. The building, a 1920s structure fronted in Stone Mountain granite, had once housed Harry’s Delicatessen (coincidentally, an establishment Maloof had served as a beer deliveryman). The deli’s original front door opening became a window to the parking lot from the Eagle’s Nest room. The bar itself was salvaged from anold billiard hall owned by Maloof’s father, Gibran, on Pryor Street. The wood paneling in the main bar was reclaimed from an old church about to be demolished; it was a nod to the cozy English pubs Maloof came to love while serving in World War II. ⌛1960s: Boundary lines and sacred walls The location in Fulton County proved useful. Just two blocks from the (then dry) DeKalb County line, Manuel’s offered the closest legal pour for Emory students, fueling its popularity among young adults and professionals alike. Maloof hung John F. Kennedy’s portrait above the bar following his 1960 victory, then shuttered the bar and draped the painting in black when Kennedy was assassinated in 1963. In 1968, Curtis McBride stepped behind the bar, kicking off a 42-year career serving Atlanta history by the pint. His photo would one day join the growing collection of pennants, steins and framed relics. 🍻 Read more: A decade-by-decade history of Manuel’s Tavern tells the story of Atlanta, one round at a time. | The Week's Essential Food and Dining Stories | | Terminal 26 delivers a Thai tourist experience at Ponce City Market | | | | | | South Downtown’s $140M building boom slows after Atlanta’s World Cup frenzy | | | | | 5 restaurants north of the Atlanta airport you don’t want to miss | | | | | | Bacchanalia chef opens brunch restaurant and more from Atlanta’s dining scene | | | | He traded Atlanta restaurants for a beach shack. He’s never been happier. | | | Brian Hogan, owner of the Inferno Hot Sauce Emporium, co-owned three Atlanta-area restaurants before moving to Tybee Island in 2018. (Miguel Martinez/AJC) | | TYBEE ISLAND ― The Inferno Hot Sauce Emporium is the type of shop you wander in to only to get lost in — even though the store measures just seven steps deep and five across. Hundreds of bottles of hot sauce and meat rubs line the exterior walls. “Colon Cleanser,” reads one label; “Dark Side of the Pepper,” another. There’s one shaped like a hand grenade; another bears a white-sheet-ghost novelty trinket over the lid, denoting a ghost pepper sauce. A tasting table dares customers to try it before they buy it. Jimmy Cliff plays on a vinyl turntable in one corner. In another sits the proprietor, a middle-aged man with an easy, sly smile that makes you think he knows something you don’t. Brian Hogan’s work uniform is board shorts, a ripped T-shirt with the sleeves cut off and a bright yellow trucker hat that reads CRISPY SHRIMP across the front. Not so long ago, Hogan would have been found in the open kitchen of Shorty’s Pizza in Toco Hills or Tucker, or Pea Ridge Kitchen and Bar in Decatur, an apron across his front and a bandanna on his head. Restaurants were his life. He became a general manager the day after he graduated from Georgia State with an accounting degree and started his own place half a year later. Shorty’s became a neighborhood favorite under his leadership — he sold in 2013 at a profit — and in partnering with chef Patrick Dunn of Leon’s Full Service to open Pea Ridge in 2015, he’d “made it” in food service parlance. But at a cost; the long work hours meant he’d missed much of the first five years of his son’s life. With first grade looming, and with it earlier bedtimes that conflicted with late restaurant nights, Hogan gave up the grind and moved to the beach. “I love the restaurant business,” he said, “but I never figured out how to do it without working all the time. I wanted a simpler life.” 🌶️ Read more: Hogan put quality of life first and moved his family to Tybee Island. His second-act business, Inferno Hot Sauce Emporium, is now an island hot spot. | Upcoming Events | | | | | | | Atlanta’s annual Black Restaurant Week has returned as a two-week celebration of the city’s Black-owned restaurants. The initiative began as a way to honor and build awareness for African, African American and Caribbean cuisine with partnerships, culinary events and marketing campaigns intended to highlight small, local food and beverage businesses.
| | | | | | | | | | | Every Tuesday through October, kids can eat for free at Atlanta-founded Mellow Mushrooms. Guests can enjoy up to two free kids meals per adult purchase of $15 or more. Kids meals are available for ages 10 and under, dine-in only. Kids meals include French bread pizza, four boneless wings and mac and cheese, all with a drink and choice of side. | | | | | | | The Chai Box grand opening | | | | | The Chai Box Cafe, a chai-focused cafe in the upper Westside, will have its grand opening party this weekend after a soft opening period. During the celebration, guests can expect iced chai and Parle-G biscuits, giveaways throughout the day, special pastries and live music. | | | | | | More From Food and Dining | | What to eat at Walt Disney World when you’re gluten-free | | | | | | A nugget of back-to-school meal inspiration | | | | | Atlanta’s tallest tower prepares for new restaurant, exclusive tenant club | | | | | | Coca-Cola resumes ‘majority’ of Fairlife U.S. production after cyberattack | | | | The quick pork dinner that uses up underripe peaches | | | Roasted Pork Tenderloin and Peaches. (Aaliyah Man for The Atlanta Journal-Constitution/food styling by Kate Williams) | | It’s prime peach season, and when you’re tired of eating them over the sink or in cobblers and pies, add them to your dinner. Pair the stone fruit with relatively quick-cooking pork tenderloins for a sweet-and-savory meal that is simple to prepare but pretty enough for company. 💡Jump-start pork tenderloin in the skillet Roasting isn’t always an obvious choice for a weeknight recipe, but it’s possible with the right technique. Instead of cooking the pork tenderloins in the oven from start to finish, give them a head start on the stovetop. Browning the meat first not only builds flavor on its exterior but also shortens the overall cooking time. 💡Pumpkin spice brings complex warm flavors to savory pork While you may think of pumpkin spice as a dessert-centric spice blend, it works well in savory applications, too. After all, it’s simply a mix of warm spices like cinnamon, allspice and clove. In this recipe, it does double duty: rubbed on the pork tenderloins and as a seasoning for the peaches. 💡Roast underripe peaches for fork-tender texture The challenge with roasting stone fruit like peaches is that it can fall apart in the oven. Starting with fully ripened peaches is a recipe for peach mush. Instead, use peaches that are still firm, yet aromatic. Put one up to your nose: If you can smell peach, it’s ready to use. 🍑 Get the full recipe for a 30-minute pork tenderloin. | Follow us on Instagram | | | |